The following is an excellent contribution made by happytimecycles in our Zoombicycles Forums :

We'll deal with your specific install questions as you post them.
SO let's assume, that you have everything installed correctly. What next?

STARTING:
Mix 7oz 2-cycle oil, with a gallon of gas. Mix well. After your tank is filled, turn fuel petcock to the 'ON' position. See the little button, on the left side of carb? Press it up and down a few times, until fuel travels down into the carb and comes back up into the line, a little.
On the right side of the carb is the choke lever. Pull it all the way up. Hold in the clutch, pedal hard (until you figure how hard you actually need to pedal, pedal hard), let the clutch out and twist the throttle. It should go POP! and then nothing. Stop. Turn choke down to about halfway, and repeat. This time, it should spit and sputter to life.Turn choke all the way down. In cold weather, it may want the choke on some, until the motor warms up.
Even though all motors appear the same, each is different in how it behaves. Example: one of my motors wants a full choke start, half choke warm-up, then choke all the way off.
Another wants full choke start, with the choke halfway on while riding.
A third motor, will not start or run with the choke on even a little.
Until you figure out what your motor wants, the full/half/off method is tried and true.

FIRST RIDE and BREAK-IN:
These are NOT motorcycles, and don't like to be treated as such. Rough riding over bumps and potholes, will reward you with bent wheels and cracked frames. Especially aluminum frame bikes. Take it easy. Especially for the first 150 miles or so. That's sometime well into your 2nd tank of fuel.
Ride 1/2 throttle for a minute or two, then drop down to 1/4 throttle for a bit. Climb up to 3/4 throttle (no more) for awhile, then drop down to 1/4, etc. You don't want to ride at the same RPM's for very long, during break-in.
Until your bike accepts the fact that this motor-thing is there to stay, take special care checking nuts, bolts, mounting hardware, etc. Don't over tighten! "It's a bicycle, not a bulldozer."-bikeguyjoe (I think)
A recent design change that has happened, is wrist-pin roller bearings are standard. They used to be bushings. This is an improvement, as roller bearing motors last longer. The drawback (no biggie), is that you won't have squat for power until the break-in period is over. Once broken-in, you'll have power. I promise.
After the 2nd full tank of fuel, you only need 6oz of oil per gallon.
A 70cc motor with a 44-tooth sprocket, will normally get 100mpg.
A 48cc with a 36-tooth, might get about 150mpg.

BASIC TOOLS TO CARRY:
#2 Phillips and regular screwdriver
10mm wrench/socket
Electrical tape
Spare innertube (Mr. Tuffy or Stop Flats tire liners highly recommended. they prevent flats like nothing else)
15mm wrench
Crescent wrench
Extra spark plug

Here's a couple bicycle repair self-help links:
www.bikewebsite.com/index.html
bicycletutor.com/ (videos)

Happy motoring

You can view this topic in our Forums here :

http://www.zoombicycles.com/Forums/Category-27/1884-First-Build-What-To-Expect.html

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written by mrrick, September 06, 2009

Thanks for your time and info.
Very helpful.You have sparked my imagination!
I have to admit I am new to this web site but I have seen afew of this bikes on the road.Last week I bought a tandem at the local auction,someone approached me and said I should put an engine on it.And here I am at zoombicycles.I think my Norco tandem is too heavy. But I do have a 63 Schwinn Corvette, and a 1920' something or other just sitting around...Guess I'll have to get to work!

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